In 1893 Marie Tucek patented the “breast supporter”, which had separate pockets for the breasts, with straps over the shoulders, and fastened by hook-and-eye closures at the back.
Although versions of the bra have been around for far longer, the bra as a fashion item was first reported in an issue of Vogue in 1907. The bra then spread though the fashion world, with each major designer creating their own prototype.
1920s Bras
Unlike today's version of the bra , bras of the early 1900s were designed to retain the breasts rather than enhance them. Most of these bras, or “bust bodices” were more akin to a camisole in length than the bikini-style bras we now wear.
In 1914 an American called Mary Phelps-Jacobs patented a bra made from silk handkerchiefs and ribbon called the Caresse Crosby. She sold the patent to a company called Warners who, within a few years, had made several million dollars based on that design. Soon after the sizing of Small, Medium and Large went to measurement in inches.
The '20s saw fashions change to fit the boyish figures of the ever-fashionable flappers. With side lacing to flatten breasts, the Symington Side Lacer was the popular choice for flappers and fans of Coco Chanel's simple classic looks.
1930s Bras
In the '30s Dunlop chemists managed to transform latex into elastic thread which could then be woven to make Lastex fabric. Bras became a big and competitive business and began to be designed for beauty just as much as for utility with cotton, lace and net cups.
In 1935 Warners made another momentous move as they introduced A to D cup sizes. In the 1950s, Britain followed their example.
War Bras of the 1940s
In the 1940s, war influenced bra design. With material shortages, women began to make their own bras from parachute silk and old wedding dresses. Commercially produced bras were made from the minimum amount of material and bore the Utility mark, leading them to be known as Utility Bras.
Emancipation of the 1960s
The 1960s saw the feminist gesture of burning bras and the industry was affected by this, but this was only a temporary setback.
21st Century Bras
The 21st century has seen a huge rise in bra sales, and women now see them as another way in which to express their style and sensuality. Bras can now enhance, minimise and even make breastfeeding in public easier. You can even buy inserts to increase your cup size.
With a bra for every occasion and underwear giants such as Gossard, Agent Provocateur and Victoria's Secret there is a bra to fit and suit everyone. So prolific is the underwear market in the 21st century that there is even a sitcom about it called Veronica's Closet.
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